THE ULTIMATE SUNSCREEN GUIDE

Sunscreen is a product everyone should have. This is a long-established fact in the beauty industry. However, there are many questions around this topic, which we are going to answer :

Mineral and Chemical Filters: What's the Difference?

All sunscreens are divided into two groups based on the type of sun protection filter: mineral and chemical. The main difference between them is how they work.

Mineral filters create a protective layer on the skin, a physical barrier that blocks UVA and UVB rays. Chemical filters absorb and break down these rays. During the chemical reaction, heat energy and free radicals are released, which are known to provoke skin aging. It is recommended to apply such sunscreens in advance so they have time to be absorbed by the skin.

What are the Types of Mineral and Chemical Filters?

There are two mineral sun protection filters: titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. According to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA), they are quite effective and safe. The only caveat is that these filters should be non-nano, as the effects of nanoparticles on the human body are not yet fully understood. Today, many responsible manufacturers prefer zinc oxide as the active ingredient.

The list of chemical filters is regularly updated, so we will name only the most popular ones: oxybenzone, octinoxate, octisalate, octocrylene, homosalate, and avobenzone. The FDA cautiously states that it does not have enough data to draw conclusions about the safety of these filters.

What are the dangers of chemical filters?

While many manufacturers insist on the complete safety of chemical sunscreens, numerous studies cast doubt on their claims. These substances penetrate the skin, enter the bloodstream, and spread throughout the body. These ingredients can be detected on the skin and in the blood even several weeks after use. Some have been found in amniotic fluid and placental tissue.

There is scientifically confirmed evidence that oxybenzone is an endocrine disruptor and even has carcinogenic effects in experiments on rats. Against this backdrop, cases of contact dermatitis and allergic reactions seem relatively harmless. Still, nobody would want to experience these consequences firsthand.

According to a recent study conducted at New York University, oxybenzone and octocrylene can be found even in sunscreens labeled as free of these substances. Expired sunscreens pose a particular danger: there is evidence that the level of carcinogens in products containing octocrylene increases over time.

Another issue with non-mineral sun protection filters, which requires a separate discussion, is the harm they cause to marine ecosystems. The problem is so significant that in October 2022, Maui County (Hawaii) enacted a law banning the use and sale of chemical sunscreens, as they "pose a threat to the health of coastal waters, coral reefs, and marine species."

Which SPF Factor to Choose?

It's easy to assume that a cream with SPF 100 will protect the skin twice as effectively as one with SPF 50. However, the difference between these products is minimal. The former blocks 99% of UVB rays, while the latter blocks 98%. So, when used correctly, a cream with an SPF value between 30 and 50 will provide sufficient protection against sunburn.

Unfortunately, you can't fully rely on the number indicated on the cream's label. Laboratory tests of various products in this category show discrepancies between the actual SPF values and those stated on the packaging. Most tested products provide significantly lower UVA protection than expected: only 24% of the claimed SPF factor.

FDA test results published in 2019 also revealed significant differences in UVA protection among products with the same SPF. It is impossible to verify the reliability of a particular manufacturer at home, so even when using the highest SPF level, you should not forget about additional protection methods.

Are there other ways to protect your skin from the sun?

Yes, they are simple and straightforward, but no less effective:

✅Wear protective clothing (long-sleeved shirts, pants) and wide-brimmed hats.

✅Avoid being in the sun during peak hours (approximately from 10:00 AM to 4:00 PM when your smartphone app shows a UV index close to 10).

✅Seek shade.

✅Use cosmetics with antioxidants.

✅Сonsume a sufficient amount of vegetables and fruits rich in antioxidants, particularly carotenoids. These plant pigments help prevent the production of free radicals and slow down skin photoaging.

Which sunscreen form factor is preferable?

There is no fundamental difference between sunscreen in the form of lotion, cream, or stick—choose the format that is most convenient for you.

⚠️ The downside of decorative cosmetics with SPF (such as foundation or BB cream) is that it is usually applied in a thinner layer than recommended for effective sun protection.

⚠️ However, it is best to avoid products in the form of sprays and powders: when inhaled, nanoparticles can enter the lungs, and there is no confirmation that this is safe. Inhalation is the most direct route for chemical compounds to affect our bodies. Unlike the skin, the lungs are more vulnerable to harmful substances. Therefore, if you need to use a spray sunscreen for some reason, first apply it to your hands and then spread it over your body.